Sunday, August 30, 2009
Missing Nicaragua
Thursday, August 27, 2009
Wednesday, August 26, 2009
despedida
Wednesday, July 8, 2009
9 days of paradise
I have just returned from a nine day adventure to the other side of Nicaragua, where the land looks different and is untouched, where the culture is completely different: creole and mesquite.
Friday, June 19, 2009
Friday, June 12, 2009
Counting down the days...
Tuesday, June 9, 2009
Leaving my mark...
So, it has been a while since I've been on here to catch everyone up on my day-to-day life. After a few long weeks with things being stressful and frustrating at school, with other issues of things at home, and what was supposed to be a relaxing weekend in Leon that turned in to me getting my bag stolen, I decided to take a step back from everything. I have disconnected myself these past few weeks, putting my computer away and finding some other way to rewind at the end of my long days. Thankfully, after a few weeks of my mind running crazy, I am feeling more at peace... and can connect back to the world at home that continues on without me, without feeling as though I want to go back.
Tuesday, May 19, 2009
Saturday, May 16, 2009
A trip to the dentist...
Tuesday, May 12, 2009
Wednesday, May 6, 2009
Monday, May 4, 2009
Clase de Arte
I finally have the art program up and running at my school; teaching the 2nd and 3rd graders every Friday and the 4th, 5th and 6th graders every Wednesday. Though they know the schedule, they ask every day if they can have art and get extremely excited when the day finally comes that I say yes. For them, it's a break from the boring classes they are usually sitting in, something challenging but fun for them and a time to play with new, fun materials.
Wednesday, April 22, 2009
MISSING from school: my favorite student.
The past three weeks, I have gone in to school with my fingers crossed, hoping that Harbi has come to school. My favorite student, the cutest 1st grader, my hardest worker, has been missing from school. Finally, after two weeks, I asked the ayudante at the school why he hasn't been coming and if she knew if everything was ok at home. "He's probably not continuing," she said so nonchalantly. Though this is quite common and I shouldn't have been so shocked, I'm pretty sure my jaw dropped to the floor because still, I don't understand why any child would suddenly just stop coming to school... or why the parents would allow that to happen... or why the teachers wouldn't inquire about this either. When I probed more at Vanessa, the ayudante, about this situation... all she seemed to muster up when I was obviously so worried about his well-being was "who knows why... but it's not really important." NOT IMPORTANT? So here I am... two months in (p.s. can you believe that?!)... and still I am shocked at the lack of motivation from these kids to learn, the lack of structure and organization in the school... and the statistic that just under 10% of kids actually finish grade school. Ten days or ten months... I don't think this is one of those things that I'll come to accept and understand.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Ometepe
During the last weekend of Semana Santa, I traveled to Isla De Ometepe (a large island in Lake Nicaragua, formed by the lava of the two volcanoes) with Hannah, Dan and Tom (Dan and Tom are friends from St. Lawrence University who recently came down here to do some volunteer work as well, for a few weeks). With only two full days on the island, we went with a very specific mission: to hike Volcan Maderas.
Monday, April 13, 2009
El Salvador? Check.
A little sight-seeing + a little bit of beach time = a relaxing semana santa (and a nice little tan).
Thursday, April 2, 2009
One month!!
April 2. Can it really be that I have already spent 5 weeks here? Now that I'm finally settled down, I have found my place in both my work and at home, in the community and with the other volunteers, I feel as though I've been here for longer. On the other hand, I feel as though I just arrived last week, nervous and unsure of what this whole adventure would bring.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Futbol "practice"
I came here knowing that there would be the possibility for me to coach soccer or to try and start some sort of program for kids within the schools that this organization teaches at. I was going to give myself a few weeks to get settled in my own routine, to really feel as though I could focus my energy on getting to know my kids, get adjusted to life here, etc. before launching in to this soccer project. After my first day, the orientation, I learned that there were basically no organized sports for any of the children at any of the school; and once seeing the schools, this came as no surprise to me, as none of them truly have school yard to even play in at recess let alone hold a sports practice (not to mention the fact that if they can’t even control their kids in a classroom, i’d hate to see any attempt at a structured practice). Before I even began thinking about the possibility of starting a team for girls in the rural area right outside of Granada, I was approached by another volunteer asking if I would be able to travel out to Juan Diego (one of the schools farthest away from the city) to meet some girls who were interested in playing. Though I wasn’t yet even settled in my life here and felt a little overwhelmed by what had just been put on my plate, I knew this was a great opportunity for me to get a start on this project.
I have officially been here for two weeks now and have already settled in with my eight students who I am tutoring every day, I had a meeting out at Juan Diego with several girls who seemed enthusiastic about starting a team and, on Friday, I traveled out to the school again to play around and have a ‘practice’.
When I talked to the girls during our meeting, I thought that I had 12 girls committed to playing twice a week for one hour. I assumed that this was reasonable, seeing as though at home, this would be asking for hardly any dedication from my players. As with many things here, I quickly learned that the words ‘team’ and ‘practice’ hold very different meanings here than at home. With a gallon of water in my backpack for them to have since there is no water at the school (as well as my own water bottle), my dictionary for all of the soccer terms that I was going to need to look up, a bag of four [ratty] balls, and my 10 cordobas to get to and from soccer.. I traveled an hour out to Juan Diego on Friday. We decided on 2:30 and so at 2:25 I arrived, ready to see what this ‘practice’ was going to bring. I thought that this would be a good chance for me to really meet the girls, to have them warm up and play around a bit without too much instruction, so that I could see where I really needed to begin with them once we figured out a more routine schedule. At 2:45, 11 girls came to the field, still in their school uniforms (blue skirts and white blouses, white socks and black dress shoes), ready to play. With smiles on their faces: “tenemos 25 minutos!”. Twenty-five minutes. That’s all I had with them, before they had to return to class. I had NO idea that I was showing up in the middle of their school day, during their ‘free’ period, rather than for the hour that I had requested at the end of their school day. Miscommunication #1. At this point, I had to make due with what I was given and so I instructed the girls to get in to groups of 2 or 3 and to pass the ball around for a few minutes before playing a small pick-up game. The girls got themselves in to groups, took off their shoes, and began. Balls were flying across the field, over the barbed-wire fence, into the bushes, hitting other girls in the back of the head. Girls were screaming, laughing at each other, chasing after balls, sitting down when they felt like they needed a rest. I had to take a deep breath and take this for what it was, let go of whatever expectations I had coming in to this. The 20 minutes after our ‘warm-up’, passed quickly as the girls played a game of kick and run. Though I tried to get one incredibly small part of the entire field, the boys (who were playing their own pick-up game of soccer) continuously ran through the middle of our game, teachers and other students walked freely in between all of the girls as they tried to play... so it would have been nearly impossible to have any sort of instruction or demonstrations, organized plays or even direct passes to one another even if we wanted to.
The girls seemed to enjoy it, but at the end I felt frustrated and defeated. I had traveled out to coach soccer but there was little coaching that was actually done. I had no field and no equipment, I felt bad that they were playing in their skirts and bare feet and responsible for not providing them with the right clothing and gear, the interferences and distractions were far too overwhelming, and I was upset because I felt like I was merely a supplier of balls more than anything else- and did not really get to accomplish anything.
I needed this weekend to think about everything, about all of the glitches that I came across on Thursday and Friday, and to re-evaluate whether or not it will be possible to work something out with this particular school. Though I plan on pursuing this project of starting a girls soccer team (and hopefully assisting in the start of a league in Granada), I will need other volunteers to step up to the plate to assist me... for this is FAR too big of a project to take on alone.
Thursday, March 12, 2009
"I love you baby"
With a headache, runny nose and body aches, I dragged myself out of bed to get ready for work. Having been sick for the past few days, I haven’t been able to each much, so I already was feeling as though I was running on empty on my walk to the bus station. My ten minute walk every morning is overwhelming and chaotic... not the typical ‘walk’ you may think of in the States. I walk through the crowded streets that are lined with vendors, people calling out what they’re selling and for how much, retail workers trying to get the attention of people passing by to come in to their shops, and of course there are the dozens of men who whistle and hiss at us gringos as we walk by. The sounds, after a while, all blend together as I keep my pace, trying to dodge everyone coming in the opposite direction... and its only the ‘i love you baby’ comments, in broken English, that seem to catch my ear. The smells are overwhelming and often times sickening: rotten vegetables that are squished throughout the street gutters, the immense amount of trash that fills the streets and sidewalks, the raw meet that hangs in the sun all day from some vendors’ stands, the body odor of hundreds of sweating bodies, stale urine from drunken homeless men who pee freely throughout the city, horse poop, and the pits and remanence of fruits that lay on the ground waiting for some emaciated dog to come by and munch on. And this morning, on top of all that, I spotted a blind man, using a cane to guide his way, coming in my direction and so without much though I took a few steps to the side in order to give him plenty of room to get by without having to inch his way in to the street where the cars were flying by. He seemed to be walking in a straight line, and I seemed to be out of his way, but at the last minute when he was conveniently right in front of me, he ‘fell’ in to me... it was obvious that it was intentional, and I realized this even more when he did it to two other girls who were several paces behind me. It amazes me how aggressive guys are here, how they’ll do anything to get a hang on a gringo. My only other experience with this was when I was in Kenya, but even then, the men were not as aggressive.. for when I opened my mouth and they realized I could speak swahili, it was almost as though it became less fun of a game for them. Here, it doesn’t matter if you speak spanish, if you ignore them or shoot them some nasty look... they’ll continue to shout comments, put their hands on your arm or waist. Yuck.
Anyway- I hopped on my usual bus and sat down, my legs sticking to the lovely pleather seats. Ten minutes later, I arrived at school, feeling lethargic and not ready to deal with all of the chaos that goes on at Elba Zamora. I spent more than half of my day actually looking for my kids. Though it’s usually hectic, I can walk around the small school yard and find who I’m looking for within a few minutes.. but today was harder than usual and I definitely didn’t have the patients for it. I struggled to get through four tutoring sessions; yawning and constantly blowing my nose, my children looked at me strangely and continuously asked what was wrong with me.
Half way through the day, a volunteer group helping out with the organization ‘Give a Kid a Backpack’ came to distribute Jansport backpacks to a bunch of the kids. Since they didn’t have enough bags for everyone, the teachers had created a list of who they thought were the most in need of a new backpack. Many of these kids were carrying their books to school in ripped plastic bags, or dragged their mangled backpack through the school yard to class by the one remaining shoulder strap. Twenty-five kids were brought in to an empty classroom and were given these brand new backpacks that were also filled with 4 new notebooks, colored pencils, half a dozen pencils, pens, and a ruler. If you saw the materials that these kids had, you would understand how big of a deal this was. Usually, each kid has one pencil that they cherish and make sure to hold on to, and they use small notebooks that barely stay together through the entire year. It was wonderful to see the kids faces as they left the room with these new bags, to see the excitement in their eyes. Again, I realized how fortunate I am to live such a luxurious life at home back in the US. One of my students, Harbi, came running up to me wanting to show me everything and it was so amazing being able to share this experience with him. On the hand, it was sad to see the look of disappointment in the other kids faces who did not receive a new backpack... and I understood completely why they were confused. “Why didn’t I get a backpack? Mine is broken..” One my kids asked me. It was all she could focus on, no matter how many times I tried to get her attention on the math problems were were trying to complete. All of these kids come from such poor communities and have so few possessions, that I can imagine how difficult it would have been to choose the kids for this. This entire experience, from the outside, was incredibly bittersweet.
Monday, March 9, 2009
New weight loss and exercise program= 'Nica' life
Friday, March 6, 2009
My lovely little children...
Public transportation is not as available or convenient as I thought it might be down here; it really consists of taxis that are far too expensive, and less than a handful of buses that run up and down one of the many main roads. The buses are old, rundown school buses, painted in different colors, usually packed with people to the door. Though you may flag them down on the side of the road and they open the door for you, they do not come to a complete stop; the ‘conductor’ hops out, running alongside the bus, waiting for you as you run to the door, he gives you a boost, and on they go...
On Wednesday, a few volunteers and I had missed the bus that we needed to take around 9:00 and instead, hitch-hiked. Often times, because of the lack of public transportation, you’ll find that people are flagging down random pick-up trucks so that they can hop in the back and get a free ride. Here we were, five gringos in the back of this young man’s truck... what a lucky ‘Nica’ (the slang word that is often used instead of Nicaraguan). After arriving at school at 9:00, we hung around in the school yard for nearly an hour before they rang the bell and kids were supposed to head to their classes. Since the kids don’t listen well, this time becomes absolute chaos; literally having chase kids down to grab their arms and drag them to their classrooms, pulling kids out of the closet in the tutoring room- as they try and steal all of the stickers and art supplies, and finding the others who have found various hiding spots around the school so that they don’t have to go to class. It takes at least ten minutes before things are ‘settled’ and class actually begins.
Wednesday was my first day for tutoring. I have five children who I’ll be taking every day, or every other day, to try and get them up to speed with the rest of the children in their class.
Harbi, the cutest little first grade boy.. but the poor guy doesn’t know any of the alphabet or his numbers. I spent an hour with him on the first 5 or 6 letters of the alphabet, trying to get him to memorize them and be able to pick them out when not in order. I would go back and forth between a and b several times, asking ‘what letter is this’ ‘a is for? arbol, etc.’ ‘a makes this sound..’, etc. and he continuously would get other letters in the alphabet: ‘u!’ ‘s!’. It was sad, and I realized within that first hour of school, that I was truly going to have my work cut out for me.
Angela is in second grade and though her teacher told me that she could read, write and do math, she doesn’t even know how to spell her own name. She has been placed in 2nd grade because she is 8, but she is at a pre-school or kindergarten level. Along with Harbi, she hardly knows the alphabet and only knows numbers 0-9, beyond that she is completely lost. Because she is so shy, she gets to attention from the teacher and therefore sits back in class and doesn’t learn anything. Part of my goal with her is to, not only have her learn the alphabet and her numbers, but to bring her out of her shell a little bit, as she is an incredibly sweet little girl.
Oreste, also in second grade. He is my one student who is so eager to learn and always comes to me with the biggest smile on his face. When doing something good, he loves to give me a high-five, and is always up for a challenge. His attention span is bigger than the other children, and so it is easy to get a lot done with him. I’m sure that i’ll see the biggest improvement with him by the time I leave here... or so I’m hoping!
Rosa Esmerelda also called hell child #2, by the other volunteers and the audante. She was pawned off on me in hopes that I’d be able to get through to her. Her ADHD is out of control, she hardly listens, has no real desire to sit down and learn for even an hour, and could really care less about school. She comes from one of the poorer communities around the school, and is always showing up with dirt all over her face, with ripped and dirty clothing, and yesterday she came to me with a full bloody leg after she had itched her bug bites to death (and of course with so little first aid stuff at the school, I had to clean it all up with one small cotton ball.. and afterwards was not able to wash my hands because there is no water at the school!!). She’ll be a challenge, but I’m ready to take her on and be the first volunteer to really get through to her. Wish me luck!!
And my last student has refused to come to school this week, so we’ll see what happens when Monday rolls around. Should be interesting!!
Those are my children that I’ve taken under my wing thus far, and that is my life every day from 9-2. It is so much fun, but I face new challenges with each of the kids every day. For the next several months it will be rewarding to see progress with them, and fun to get to know each of the children at this school a little better.
Tuesday, March 3, 2009
1st "full" day at Elba Zamora = chaos
My morning began at 6:30 with a shower: cold and with absolutely no water pressure. Though the coolness of the water felt nice, I knew the moment I stepped out, I’d begin sweating... before it even hits 9am, the temperature usually reaches 85 degrees, and so you can imagine what it is like mid-day! After showering and getting dressed, I ate a bowl of yogurt and fresh watermelon for breakfast. I left the house around 8:00, with one other volunteer too meet the ‘ayudante’ (a high school or university student who works at the school, mostly to assist volunteers, since they grew up in the area of these small schools and know the kids quite well) of Elba Zamora. At 8:45, we were still waiting for Vanessa (thought she’s not quite as lovely as my sister Vanessa). Welcome to Elba Zamora, the school that has absolutely no structure. From what I hear from other volunteers, this is something that will happen to us often; we will travel to the school every day (walking 45 min or talking a 15 min bus ride for about 25 cents), but will find that school has been canceled, or teachers did not show up, at least once a week. One volunteer had worked there for nearly two months and never had a full week of work... so this will definitely take some getting used to!
The walk there was long and dusty, and there is no room for daydreaming or letting your mind wander in any way... for you’re constantly jumping off the side of the road as cars come whizzing by. Since there are no sidewalks, it becomes a car-dodging game... pedestrians do not have the right of way. By the time I got to school, I already felt covered in a film of sweat and my white feet were covered in dirt.
As soon as I stepped in to the school gate, the other volunteer (her name is Manon) and I were surrounded by little kids asking us for our names, giving us hugs and grabbing our hands to lead us to their classrooms. Though school starts at 7 am, we aren’t needed until 9ish. I thought that when we would arrive, the children would all be in their classrooms... but it was the complete opposite: it was as though the entire school ground was their playground and there was no such thing as a structured class. The kids ran around the school, played on the playground, went in and out of all the classrooms.. it was a free for all. And no, it was not recess.
I entered the 2nd and 3rd grade classroom, and immediately got thrown in to teaching math. This particular classroom held roughly 15 students, but if you were to have stood outside and listened in, you would have guessed there were twice as many students inside. The teacher stood in front of the classroom and spoke, but kids were in and out of their desks, they were hitting each other and mocking out the teacher... she had absolutely no authority and it was amazing how anything ever gets done. In all honesty though, not much does, and it’s incredibly sad. Math books were given to each of the kids, but they were given little direction before they were on their own to complete ‘lesson 4’. After a few minutes, I walked around and looked at each kid’s notebook- not one had a single answer written down. I quickly realized that they couldn’t read the questions and therefore couldn’t write any answers down... day after day they are given these work books, but all they do is copy the question down, they don’t learn a single thing. I took the 2nd graders under my wing and read each question aloud and walked them through the problems one at a time. Even that wasn’t as easy as it sounds; many of these kids, who are in 2nd and 3rd grade, can’t count to 100 and even simple addition or subtraction is beyond them... so completing the problem “what number is ten more than 500” was nearly impossible, as I had to start from square 1. So, after more than an hour, we completed six problems... and that was the day. The kids were sent home early, at 12 instead of 2 but I couldn’t tell you why.
For the next several weeks I have decided that instead of working inside the classrooms, I will be taking students out of the class for one-on-one help with reading, math, etc. Though all of the kids could use assistance, it would be nearly impossible for me to do that all on my own. The only way I will get any progress from any of the students, is if i take the ones who need it the most. For example, sweet, little Elsa could hardly even count to ten and when I pointed to the number 6, 8 or 9 she couldn’t tell me the difference, and thought that 500 was 1,000... tomorrow, I’ll be taking her for a half hour to tutor her a bit so that I can get her up to speed with some of the other kids in her class.
Already, A huge eye-opener. I now realize how much patients this will take but how much they really need volunteers. Though we need to respect the teachers and not try and take over, I am hoping that we can make a bit of a difference with a few handfuls of kids in terms of tutoring them to get them to where they should be (or where the rest of the class is), actually taking the time to teach them. It was sad to see how little these kids learn in school, and I realized so quickly why only 30% of kids actually finish school through the 6th grade.
I am glad I am here. I am hoping to make a bit of a difference. I know that I can not change the school system or the way that Elba Zamora is run, but I have hope that if I can encourage these kids to want to learn, to make it fun and interesting, to praise them when they do well, that I may be part of the reason why even just 3 more kids from this small school continue their education...
Monday, March 2, 2009
Fun fact (but not so fun)
Sunday, March 1, 2009
From being in Kenya, I know bed bug bites when I see them. I guess I’ll take the small, red, round markings on my arms, legs and chest as a ‘welcome’ from the little critters that have been dwelling in [what is now] my bed.
Anyway- yesterday’s travels from Portland to Boston, Boston to Houston, Houston to Managua and from Managua to Granada, is almost a blur. Though I took a sleeping pill on Friday night so that my anxiety about this adventure wouldn’t keep me up, I woke up on Saturday still exhausted. The abundance of emotions that have come over me over this past week became so draining that it wore me down until I felt like I had nothing left.
My flights went smoothly, and I finally arrived in Nicaragua at 9:30ish. Stepping off the plane was sensation overload; though I was expecting all of these changes, the heat (it was 84 degrees when I arrived), the smells, the language, everything... became overwhelming. I was excited to finally be here, but still so nervous and anxious to get my visa, find Felipe (the driver who would be waiting for me with my name on a sign), get ‘home’ safely, and to see this house that I’ll be living in for the next several months. Many times, I felt as though I needed to hold back my tears... and managed to do so until my head hit my pillow last night.
My house is a lovely place, large and very open. I’m here with 14 other girls (yikes!) but thankfully it is spacious enough that it doesn’t quite seem like there are that many of us here. I share a bedroom with three other girls, only one of which I have met yet. Everyone seems extremely friendly, but since I am not quite comfortable here, I have been more quiet than my usual self. It is definitely going to take me a few weeks to really feel at home here...
Granada itself is a BEAUTIFUL place. The city is colorful, as every building is painted a vibrant color. As my mailing address said, I am just a few blocks from the lake, and am also just a few blocks from the center of town, the market, the bank, and right next door to the office of La Esperanza.
This is just the short of it- but I think it’s time for me to go mingle with everyone, to stop being the new girl who can’t yet disconnect herself from her friends and family at home...
Later, when I’m heading to bed, I’ll fill everyone in a bit more on my first day here...
Sunday, February 22, 2009


In just one week, I’ll be calling a small house on Calle Libertad, in Granada, Nicaragua my new home.
Yes, I am embarking on yet another adventure, but this time not to Africa. My love for traveling, my fascination with other cultures and people, and my drive to do volunteer work in a developing country drove me to search for a long- term volunteer opportunity abroad. Finally, at the beginning of this year, I found a non-profit organization in Nicaragua that was looking for volunteers to work in six different primary schools in small villages right outside of Granada. After applying and having many conversations with the director, I decided that I’d take this wonderful opportunity to fulfill one of my biggest dreams in my life thus far.
I’ll be working mostly with kids who are in Kindergarten- 4Th grade, teaching English, assisting teachers with generating creative lesson plans (this is lacking since teachers have limited education themselves, therefore integrating any sort of creativity in to plans is not a priority for them), and running an art program at the school. On top of that, the director of the program has asked and suggested that I set up a community art project in which I will design and help paint murals on some of the school walls. If you’re thinking this couldn't be more up my alley, that’s exactly what I was thinking, it’s why I committed so quickly, and only gave myself four weeks to pack up everything and head off!
Though the thought of traveling, living abroad, and doing volunteer work has always excited me, the emotions are overwhelming now that this dream of mine is becoming reality. I have decided to create this blog so that all of you can follow my adventures, keep track of what I am doing and how my experience is, see pictures of where I am living and working, and hear about my excursions outside of Granada and Nicaragua on my long weekends and school breaks. Since I will have Internet access fairly accessible, I am hoping to post something on here at least once a week... so keep your eye out. Being gone for so long this time, I opted not to put the responsibility on my father of sending out my mass e-mails, and figured this would be the most convenient for both you and me!
I hope you enjoy following me on my adventures throughout Nicaragua and the surrounding countries! Wish me luck!
